Anthony Bourdain in Vienna

Have you guys seen the American Travel Channel's Anthony Bourdain: No Reservations?  Did you happen to catch his visit to Vienna?  If not, here are the three 15 min. YouTube videos of his first culinary experience in our beautiful capital of Austria.

*Warning*  Mr. Bourdain can be quite vulgar at times so parental discretion is advised.  Andrew-san, you may want to ask for permission before you watch this.

Clip 1:3

Clip 2:3

Clip 3:3

So, what did you think?  Did Anthony's visit represent Vienna well?

St. Nikolas Eve

Tomorrow is St. Nikolas Day!  This is not a major holiday observed in the US, but I've recently learned that it is a very special children's holiday celebrated with small gifts and a great feast in many European countries.

Children throughout Austria are preparing tonight by placing their boots outside their front door, or on a windowsill, and praying that they'll wake up tomorrow morning to boots full of oranges, apples, nuts, chocolates, and small toys.

You see, it is tradition that St. Nikolas and his sidekick, the Krampus, visit the homes of children on the eve of St. Nikolas and leave treats in the shoes of the good children and tree branches (Rute) in the shoes of the bad children.

Allegedly, the first two weeks of December are judgment weeks for children in Austria.  It is believed that the Krampus used to threaten and frighten the bad children in the first two weeks of December and especially on the 5th while St. Nikolas gave gifts to the good ones.  Today, young men dress up as Krampi and roam the streets and frighten children into behaving better with rusty chains and bells.  There are even parade-like events for the Krampi, called a Krampuslauf.  Um, scary!

Österreichischer Nationalfeiertag

Today is National Day in Austria!  The State Treaty of 1955, which ended Austria's occupation and restored the country's sovereignty, was signed in May of that year.  However, October 26 is the day that commemorates when the Soviet Union and Western troops left the country, and a constitutional law of permanent neutrality was enacted.  The Parliament building and all national museums are open and free to the public today!

Google's Doodle today (in Austria at least)

Fröhliche Nationalfeiertag!

Schwedischer Tee

Nine years ago I discovered tea.  Real tea.  Loose leaf tea.  Tea from a pot, not a porous bag.  My girlfriend Kajsa is the reason for and witness to my discovery, and my now irrevocable addiction.  She is my enabler.  She sends me my supply.

 

The Swedish supply from Kajsa that I discovered in my mailbox yesterday!

Before studying abroad in Stockholm, Sweden, I knew nothing of the tea-drinkers world.  I thought tea was a holiday drink, or what proper grandmothers with Old-World upbringings daintily sip (as did mine).  In the States, most of my friends and family enjoyed coffee.  Not tea.  Sure, we had boxes of tea bags in the house growing up, although no one used them, save for my mom and her occasional afternoon cup.  It was not until I was 20 years-old and living abroad, however, that I began to understand the vastness of this product and the impact that it's many varieties have on the world.  I learned of loose leaf teas, black teas, regional teas, aromatic teas, and medicinal teas.  And then, a two years later, when I lived in Japan, I learned of O-cha (powered green tea) and Chado (the Way of Tea).

  Me with my Japanese students (2004)

Sure, I dig green tea.  I think its health benefits are fascinating and important.  Be that as it may, I prefer black tea.  And I favor teas mixed in Sweden.  Especially the tea mixture that Kajsa and her family drinks.  Because when I drink it here, or anywhere, I'm transported back to being 20 years-old, an exchange student, curious, and new to being passionate about observing other cultures and languages.  It takes only a whiff to take me back to where the addition began. 

Tack allt, Kajsa!

Oktober ist die beste!

October is officially my favorite month in Austria.  I realize we're only 3 days in, but hear me out.  My reasons are threefold.   

Eins (one) -- I love the fall and since the month of October is synonymous with fall, I therefore, love October.  I'm a sucker for all orange hues, the scent of chimney smoke, cozy scarves, and for any reason to curl up under a blanket and stay there. All. Day. Long.

[image source: Ryan S B]

Zwei (two) -- The start of October in Austria brings with it beer, wine, and music.  You heard me. Oktoberfest comes to Wien!  (Do check out their website.  It's adorable.)  While the festival actually begins in late September, it is certainly celebrated during -- and often associated with -- the first weekend of October.  It was a special treat for me and David to check out the fest with our visitors (my sister and mom).  Next year, we'll be sure to reserve a table in advance so that we can twirl to the Schlager and Volkstümliche Musik while drinking beer and chowing down on some Wiener Schnitzel, Spätzle, und Brezen.  I totally intend on wearing a Dirndl too.

 The official Wiener Wiesn Dirndl 2011 by Suchodolski

Drei (three) -- Austria's Lange Nacht der Museen was October 1!  Museums all over the country were open to the public from 6pm to 1am.  In Wien, one needed only to buy a 13€ ticket to enjoy over 660 museums.  This year, David and I made it to five of them before 1am rolled around.  We'll attempt the other 655 in the years to come.

The five we stopped by were Das Globenmuseum (The Globe Museum), Das Judenplatz Museum (The Jewish Museum), Das Mozarthaus Museum (Mozart's Apartment -- and we attended a short concert of Mozart's "The Marriage of Figaro"), Secession Art Museum, and Das Rauchfangkehrermuseum (The Chimney Sweeper Museum).

1. Kurrentgasse at night, 2. Concert at Mozarthaus, 3. Mozarthaus, 4. Museum Judenplatz, 

5. Globenmuseum, and 6. Rauchfangkehrermuseum

Ah, October.  I welcome you with open arms.

Die Schultüte

Yesterday was the first day of public school for children in Austria!  And you'd have to be living under a rock not to notice.  The heartbeat of the city was pumping strong and the buzz on the street was more alive and energetic than usual.  I loved it.  I particularly loved seeing so many young families walking to school together with the little ones so proudly leading the way.  The first day of school is a very special day in Austria and Germany.  It would be a big deal to you too if you partook in the region's 200 year old tradition of die Schültute.

http://celleheute.de/gesunde-schultuten-fur-erstklassler/

The Schultüte (school cone) is a large paper or plastic cone which is filled with all kinds of sweet things and gifted to children on their first day of school.  These prettily decorated cones are filled with candy, toys, school supplies, and various other goodies.  (For my American readers, think Christmas stockings or Easter baskets.)  While often times handmade, prepackaged cones may now be purchased from local stores.

The old German tradition began in the early 1800s but apparently not much has changed since then  Although, in some parts of Germany, children used to have to pick their cone from a tree, but now children are simply handed the cone from their parents, grandparents, or godparents in the morning before heading off to school.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/8725928@N02/

 
Can you imagine how sweet the anticipation must be the night before school starts in homes all over Germany and Austria?  I imagine it's something like the night before Christmas.  Children must be so excited to wake up and get going on the first day of school.  

Here's a YouTube video (in German) about how to make a Schultüte:

Unser Steiermark Ausflug: Teil II

The charming, family-owned and -operated Meyers Gasthof was home to us during our foray in Graz.  The Pension (guesthouse/B&B) is located in the southwest corner of the city, near the Straßgang train station.  The rooms are spacious and affordable and the restaurant whips up some pretty tasty food.  We had a very nice BBQ dinner and several filling breakfasts here.  

[image source: http://fi.hotels.com/]

 Here's a glimpse of our hearty Austrian breakfast with coffee and eggs made-to-order.

Driving around Styria presented some incredibly magnificent views, as many of our photos illustrate.  The act of driving was also quite an experience in and of itself.  Neither of us had ever driven in Austria, or anywhere in Europe for that matter.  Sure, we took a few wrong turns here and there, but thanks to the Google Maps app on our cell phones, we always found our way.  

From our Pension in Graz we headed west along Route 70 into the mountains and the wine growing region of Styria.  We then meandered south on the Schilcherweinstraße (Schilcher wine route, Route 76) until making our first pit-stop in Stainz.  We weren't planning to stay here long, but when one stumbles upon a small town wine festival, one must be flexible, no?  An unplanned detour often creates some of the best memories.

Here's a YouTube video we found online of some of the dancing at die Schilchertage in Stainz Fest.  Fantastic.

From Stainz we continued south on Route 76 and eventually veered east along the Südsteirische Grenz Straße (South Styrian border road, Route 69) paralleling the Slovenian border. We were told to visit the church in Sankt Veit am Vogau, which, though small, possesses some impressively ornate baroque elements and a few massive paintings on the ceiling -- among these, interestingly, we found an image of Karl Marx, who with raised hands speaks to the proletariat (just to the right of the Pope).  You don't see that everyday.  Well, maybe you do if you live in Sankt Veit am Vogau.

 Wallfahrtskirche St.Vitus   

Asia Day

David's institute celebrates its international makeup and honors its diverse community by hosting several cultural events throughout the year.  Each spring an international dinner is organized and everyone (including staff, researchers, and family members) bring a dish from their own country to share.  In June there is a Midsummer party hosted by the Europeans (particularly the Scandinavians) to commemorate the summer solstice.  In early July, a ginormous pancake breakfast is prepared by the Canadian members for the entire institute to celebrate the nation's birthday.  Following this, comes the American sponsored 4th of July party with hotdogs, hamburgers, water balloon fights, a pickup baseball game, and some good old Rock 'n' Roll tunes.

Last week there was a massive Asia Day party to honor all of the Asian nations represented at the institute.  This particular party is usually the biggest and most well attended of all the international events throughout the year.  The food served is delish and diverse and I found myself returning for thirds and forths as if I wouldn't be fed again for a week.  My favorite dish?  Hm, maybe the coconut dessert drink.  But the Malaysian spring rolls were a close second favorite.  David dug the kimchi, but that's not too surprising.  Spicy, fermented cabbage is his kryptonite.  Aside from the impressive amount of the tasty homemade Asian dishes, the fashion show, Chinese dancing, and karaoke really set this event over the top.  No wonder it's an institute favorite.  It's mine too.

Fashion Show

Kinder

 

Asian Feast

Chinese dancing and Filipino singing 

The captivated audience

The event took place on the lawn behind the institute's restaurant

A little origami to boot

 

I'm not totally certain about the other events being held in the fall.  However I do know that there's talk of an Africa Day coming up.  Come November there's certain to be a Thanksgiving dinner and in December, either a Winter Ball or Christmas dinner (these events alternate each year).

A Coffeehouse Legend

While there's a drought in Somalia, a heatwave in the US, and suffocating humidity in Japan, the temps have been quite mild here in Austria (with the exception of a few super hot days sprinkled in here and there).  This past weekend the highs barely reached 18'C (65'F).  We've had thick cloud coverage since Friday.  Therefore it's been quite dark and dreary the past couple of days.  In fact, I've been feeling a bit gloomy.  (I imagine this is how Eeyore feels.)  Not sad, or depressed really.  Just lazy and, well, gloomy.

Gloomy can be good sometimes, though.  Dreary days are sort of like forced holidays, aren't they?  The weather this weekend certainly enticed me and David to take a rest from our usual weekend bike ride or hike to do some museum and cafe hopping.  We took advantage of the Free Saturdays at the MAK and roamed around the top floor for a bit (we saved the other 2 floors for our next visits).  After visiting the MAK, we refueled ourselves with another first -- a visit to the legendary Cafe Hawelka.

I've read about this cafe in various Vienna guide books and on other blogs about the city.  I put off the visit because I figured the famous establishment would be packed with tourists and the cafe experience would be more frustrating than enjoyable.  Boy was I wrong.  Yes, the place was packed.  But we easily found a cozy table for two.  Yes, there were tourists.  But not the frustrating, obnoxious type.  The respectful type.  The kind of tourists that use their broken German to order a Wiener Melange and then chat quietly with their friends in their common language.  Good people.  And to top it all off, the Hawelka family roasts some pretty fantastic coffee.

So, actually, now I'm a massive fan of Cafe Hawelka.  It was inspiring to sit in a place where for decades writers and artists like Friedensreich Hundertwasser, Arthur Miller, and Andy Warhol discussed their ideas, wrote their stories, and sketched their masterpieces.  Next time, I'm going back in the evening so to enjoy Frau Hawelka's famous Buchteln.  Maybe tomorrow?  And, I'll take my book.  Catching Fire's getting real good folks.

Here's to gloomy days!

"A picture means I know where I was every minute. That's why I take pictures. It's a visual diary." ~Andy Warhol

"A good newspaper, I suppose, is a nation talking to itself." ~Arthur Miller

"When we dream alone it is only a dream, but when many dream together it is the beginning of a new reality." ~Friedensreich Hundertwasser

 

"The apple cannot be stuck back on the Tree of Knowledge; once we begin to see, we are doomed and challenged to seek the strength to see more, not less."  ~Arthur Miller

A Night at the Muesum

Awesome Thing About Living in Vienna #3,074: Gourmet dinners at the museums!  Last night, David and I joined a buddy for the Gourmetabend am Donnerstag (Gourmet dinner on Thursday) at the Kunsthistorisches Museum.  

From 6:30 to 10:00pm we indulged in a delicious feast of cheeses, meats, smoked and grilled fish, salad greens, several potato dishes, a Chanterelle mushroom sauce, multiple veggie purees, various mousses, and a smorgasbord of desserts.  But the highlight of the night was when we took a break from gorging ourselves and sauntered through the Picture Gallery.  Unfortunately, time passed too quickly and we ended up only experiencing about a quarter of the entire museum before it closed.  Not to worry though.  We'll be returning soon -- maybe not for the dinner (while delicious, it was a bit pricey), but the museum is beckoning me back.

Vienna's freaking awesome.

Lyd takes Vienna (Part 2)

More apologies for neglecting our blog readers. Lydia's visit has been so precious to us that we've not wanted to spend one mental moment away from her.  I'm sure you understand.  Alas, here's what we've been up to since Friday. . .

Saturday - The Prater Day

Sunday - A Wienerwald Day (Stadtwanderweg 6)

Monday - A Schönbrunner Day

Monday - A Schönbrunner Day

Monday - A Schönbrunner Day (lunching at the Gloriette Cafe)

Monday - A Heurige Evening

Tuesday - A Laxenburg Day

Wasn't Lyd a trooper?  We drug her all over the place, but she went along skipping and smiling.  Her enthusiasm made us even more enthusiastic and so we were just one big ball of fun - nonstop for 9 days straight!  It was fascinating for us to experience the city again through her eyes.  But more than that, just being with Lydia -- anywhere in the world -- is soul soothing, yet electrifying at the same time.  Our precious time together in the same city was truly a meaningful and memorable one.

Vielen, vielen Dank Lyd.  We love and appreciate you more than you can know. 

(ear <-----> ear)
Daveed & Fred-a-sisi

Schwimmen am Schwimmbad

It is HOT in Vienna!  While yesterday we found an air-conditioned cafe to crash so as to escape the heat, today we decided to hit up a public pool.  Actually, we figured that Vienna's city pools would be too crowded, so we thought we were being clever by venturing south and trying a public pool in the adorable village of Mödling.  Well, we weren't clever enough since we certainly were not the only ones with that idea.  There were a kajillion people at the pool!  No sweat though, since we quickly found a shading spot under a tree and directly behind the diving zone.  Great shade and excellent people watching were very much enjoyed.

How awesome do the public swimming pools in Austria look?  The pictures barely do them justice.  Yes, they can be really crowded, especially on weekends.  But they are also squeaky clean, well organized, and full of all the amenities one desires (so typically Austrian, right?).  Check out the beer garden in the top right of the picture or the langos David's devouring in the center.  Really?  Really?

It was a clever idea to head to the pool after all.         

The Water Forest

Austria is one of the many Catholic countries in Europe that celebrates Whit Monday. To the average Viennese, all this means is that we get another 3-day weekend in June to enjoy. As for us, we spent 2 of the 3 days with friends soaking up the start of summer in the city's Lobau region.

The Lobau (or "water forest") is 1/3 of the Donau-Auen National Park which stretches from Vienna to Bratislava and is one of the last remaining protected wetland areas in Europe. It's a huge recreation area (2,300 hectacres) with a massive network of hiking and cycling paths. If we had not been riding with a pro, we certainly would have been lost within the first 10 minutes of the park. We made it out this time unscathed. Perhaps next time we'll lose ourselves.

DAY 1

Our cycling path (we covered 26 miles total)

Rehydrating

Riding through an open field

Stopping for a proper refueling break at a conveniently located Gasthaus in the Lobau.

Crossing over the Danube River back into Vienna. We biked right over a watering skiing competition. The speed boats were going at least 60 mph. It was pretty amazing to witness the professional skiers holding on.

On the last stretch home

DAY 2

This time, we drove to the Lobau and then walked a short distance into the park in search of a nice picnic spot.

Here we enjoyed a little Mittagsessen. . .

. . . a little Bommerang. . .

. . . a little schlafen. . .

. . . a little Frisbee spielen. . .
. . . and a little Fußball spielen. . .

Then the holiday weekend came to a close and we headed home to prepare for the work week.